AP: Rattlecan Work

Arctic Patriot shares his experience in making his tools less conspicuous:

Painting My .308

Painting My AR

Camouflaging Your Weapon: A Photo Tutorial

Nice clubs.

14 responses to “AP: Rattlecan Work

  1. I would think that the barrel and other metal parts would smoke a lot when it gets hot. Anybody got any input on this?

    • It will, likely a few times. On the AR, the barrel will smoke where I painted it, and on the .308, it might get to that point, but not very often.

      Will follow up with range reports discussing this issue and what happens in reality to these pieces.

      Need to buy more 5.56 first, though.



    • Sean, when I camoed my mini 14 (yeah, I know, don’t even start with the AR v Mini crap), I did the stainless barrel in black. Not much of it shows anyway and it contrasts with the stock colors. (I’ve done the stock three times trying different schemes.) I used the very tough epoxy based and a little expensive stuff from Brownells, baked and all on the barrel and it has never smoked although I haven’t tried to get it red hot. The prep and application is way more trouble than rattle can.

      A cheaper and less hassle alternative for barrels would be ‘ barbeque black’ used for grills. It’s dead flat black and will only smoke the first time you run it really hot, maybe not even then since it smokes a hot grill the first time you light it. Does anyone get a barrel as hot as they do their grill?

  2. Not if it has been allowed to set ofr at least 5 days.
    They you go shot it fast and hard to bake the pain onto the metal.
    After that it will not smoke.

  3. I have run a painted firearms both long and short and have not had any smoke tho I have not run either with full battle intensity

  4. I’ve done SKS, AK, 10/22.. They smell a little the first time out, but no smoking.

    Why are you using your rifle as a cigarrete lighter, Sean?

  5. Ironically, I just spoke to the XO last night about attending the certification course for Duracoat. The war department is taking it into consideration for approval of my funding requisition. Might be able to put all those art classes to work for me afterall.

  6. A couple things for those unaware. Duracoat is essentially the same as auto paint- Polane. It’s relatively durable and easy enough to apply with a cheap air brush. Brownells/KG/Norrells are all bake on epoxy based paints. I’ve used all and like them in this order KG/Norrells/Brownells. Reasons are KG- applies well, is more durable than duracoat, cleans up well. Norrells- same as KG for the most part, but has a strong smell- outdoors with good breeze is recommended. Brownells- I think Brownells is KG, but in an aerosol can. Due to this it doesn’t have as uniform of a finish when dried as KG or Norrells does. It looks lke spray paint, but is harder.

    On my AR I coated with a mix of KG (tan and OD) and Norrells (black), I saw no finish wear any where in the two years/1,000 rounds of use. I’ve used Norrells on a recoil rod I made for my pistol. After 300 rounds, it has worn, but I attribute the wear to the mirror finish on the recoil rod. If I blasted it or brushed it, I’m sure the finish would stick.

    Finally, as I said on AP’s blog, the down side of most of the above is when you’re done, you often have a shiney, pretty painted rifle. There are flat coatings that will reduce reflection, but none like krylon/rustoleum. The benefit of Krylon is that you can adapt the long arm color to suit the environment without special equipment, and very quickly.

    I have a CrMV barrel that I’m going to moly coat becuase it gets surface rust on it. I’ll probably coat the whole rifle a flat moly brown and then spray paint it to match the terrain. I’ve done the stencil kit thing and it’s unrealistic.

    another final point- a few years back USMC traded all/most of their M40A1 McMillan stocks back to McM for new series stocks. Those trade in stocks sold like hot cakes on snipershide. Nearly all were heavily coated in several colors of krylon from yellow, sand, green, brown and other colors. For decades the snipers had been matching the rifle to suit the terrain. Underneath was the neat molded in camo of the original stock, but the snipers knew, however cool, they just didn’t blend in. They didn’t want to risk exposing a hide with a shiney pretty rifle.

  7. LF, you funny, funny, man.I’m just asking that, because I have set a number of AKs, SKSs, and other shit on fire, semi and FA. Getting an AR to smoke is no trick either. N’ .06, Jeez Louise, I didn’t mean to get yourn dander up about minis or nothin’. I owned a mini-30, and a mini-14, and I just wasn’t feeling the joy, and mostly because of the magazine situation. I couldn’t get the mags to feed consistently, factory or after-market(blaaarghhh!) and after two years of trying, I shit-canned both of them, and picked up another SKS to flesh out the inventory. I have also burned and slagged 5 M-60 barrels, because once they get red hot, they’re pretty much garbage.

  8. Hey, Sean… Chill man. That was me re: minis, not LF Mayor, and I was not singling you out. I’ve just come to expect flak from AR devotees every time I even mention minis. And I’m tired of it.

    I have not had any problems with mini mags (steel, 20 rds) feeding, either Ruger factory or Pro Mags (steel, 20 rds) which I’m convinced are identical to factory. So convinced that I think Pro Mag makes ’em for Ruger. They’re just about 15 bucks cheaper, is all. Steel. 20 rds. 223. Ruger original. Pro Mag. No problem. 7.62×39… not so much.

    I know this is inviting a shit storm but, when yer AR craps out for whatever reason, my mini will still be running… years from now.

    1/2″ grps mean squat when the gun don’t run.

  9. I have the skill to build ARs from just parts, total, and the tools, and a small mountain of spare parts. So if, and when, they crap out, I’ll just re-build them and drive on. I like the minis, I do, and some of my best friends own minis(Oy), but you know the deal. Got no flak to give away. Chill out? That’s what them teenage sons o’ mine say, even if I tell them thanks for doing something. I don’t shoot for 1/2″ groups. I shoot to kill. Combat shooting is not range or practice shooting, and if a person can hit 25% of the targets they shoot at in combat, as they do in practice, it’s a miracle. OughtSix, I don’t like shit-storms any more than you, and if you felt slighted, my apologies.

    • I ain’t upset, no apologies necessary, especially from you. My AR v mini comment was just to avoid reopening of the usual “debates” that I seem to get on the subject every time I mention I own a mini.

      I trained on M1 Garands! The M1 A and the mini are just more natural for me.

  10. alan w. mullenax

    If it’s ok with guys, I’m. gonna leave my guns the color they are.

    The folks I expect to fight are gonna know I’m there. Seems silly to pretend.

  11. Cassandra (of Troy)

    General query about the following as desirable patterns,:


    Once had a Colt SP-1 AR-15 w/ 6 factory mags that was run hard w/o probs & later a 180 series Mini-14 w/ 4 no-name 30rd mags that was run equally hard w/o probs. Disassembly/cleaning/reassembly of the Colt was a joy whereas the Mini was a decided PitA even after I got manuals & practiced repeatedly, & the only one that was worse than the Mini was a takedown FN Browning semi-auto .22LR. That being said, I had more confidence in the Mini than the AR as the former seemed much more robust than the latter & that impression was reinforced by comments from numerous Nam/later combat vets I’ve met. The thing that changed my opinion of the Mini’s desirability as a long term field weapon was the stream of negative reports from reliable people about them misfiring/seizing when run under combat conditions. The consensus was that they’re good enough for hunting/LE as use would be occasional & support readily available. The mag change on ARs/M-16s you must admit is MUCH easier/faster than the M-14/Mini & AK & the AR/M-16 fire controls are similarly superior as is the ARs/M-16s accuracy. Even so, I’d rather have a .223/5.56 AK than an AR/M-16/Mini-14 because the former’s tougher, easier to clean/fix, & damned near idiot proof, & prefer the FAL to the M-1A/M-14 for those reasons w/ the addtl that it’s as accurate as the M-1A/M-14, has better fire controls, & is adjustable for ammo/fouling. ‘Unpatriotic’, I know, to prefer foreign iron to American & doubly so w/ ‘that GD Commie gun’, but I guess I’ll just have to bear up under the shame of my ‘treason’ as best I can.

    Funny how that same standard doesn’t seem to apply to items like the Beretta, Glock, & SIG. Life’s fulla mysteries, ain’t it.

    Cassandra (of Troy)