Jebadiah Fisher: Independence Day Seed Special

Bill is running another great deal:

Two Patriot Packages shipped for $150.00…. 6 pounds of open pollinated Heirloom Garden Seed, 19 individual varieties.

Are you independent if you don’t have food?

Both stored foods and the ability to produce and preserve more?

Tempus fugit.

And food will be one of the primary weapons used by the Elites to compel compliance.

Get ready.

11 responses to “Jebadiah Fisher: Independence Day Seed Special

  1. Hi there!

    To supplement getting seeds, here’s some root crop advice. BTW I’m in Zone 6, so adjust this advice according to your zone.

    You can regrow carrots from their tops if you leave a little bit of root on it (like half an inch or so). Dunno how well it works if there’s no greens on it, but you could try. Carrot tops are also edible – I like to put one in soup stock for flavor. If you grow an onion, I bet you could cut off the rooty part on the bottom of it and replant that, but I’m not totally sure. Same with turnips. But turnip seeds are cheap anyway. Purple top white globe is an heirloom, even if a seed package doesn’t say so.

    Bunching onions are easier to grow than bulb ones. With bulb ones you need to get the seeds/sets from your area, because there are varieties from the north that don’t work in the south and vice versa. The bunching ones are more forgiving than that.

    There is a variety of onion called the Egyptian Walking Onion that makes its own onion sets above ground. It is curly and looks really cool. I want to get some. You will never have to buy onion sets again if you get this variety. Not a lot of people have this, you’ll have to google it.

    You can plant onions from seeds or sets. Sets are little baby onions. Farmers will plant seeds in the fall and harvest sets to sell to you in the spring. That is basically the difference, is the seeds take longer. But since the Egyptian Walking Onion makes little mini onions above ground as well as its big ones underground, you can bypass the whole seed thing.

    You can leave a bag of taters in the warm and get eyes. Cut it up, dry it out for a day or two, and plant the chunks with eyes in March. Sweet potatoes too, but plant those in June. Yukon Gold and Red yield a lot more than the blue kind. I’d stick with those for a home garden, but you can also try the big Idaho kind.

    Cherry tomato plants are a lot hardier than the bigger tomato varieties. They will often seed themselves and you will have volunteers the next year. I kept forgetting to start tomato plants but I have them anyway this year because of all the volunteers. You can still can them or make sauce from them, and they have more sugar than some other varieties, too. (This is good in a survival situation. Forget diet foods.) Purple calabash also makes a lot of volunteers, but they don’t keep very long, you have to can or dehydrate them pretty quick after picking them, and they look like “culls”. They make decent sauce though. Rutgers red is a good hardy bigger heirloom variety, and they’re good for slicing too.

    You might get the seeds from store bought cherry tomatoes to germinate. Maybe they’re not sterile. To properly save the seeds, soak them in water a couple days, discard the tomato scum that floats to the top of the water, and dry the seeds that sink to the bottom of the water on a plate, then scrape them off gently into an envelope when they are dry. You can dry them on a paper towel, but your germination rate will be lower.

    You can still reuse a metal canning lid for dehydrated things, herbs or fridge pickles. They’re not completely useless once you’ve canned with them. I save mine. You can try to re-can with them, but they might not seal right. Better to use new for canning or get Tattler lids.

    Just as important as seeds is soil. You gotta have at least 6-9 inches of good dirt or nothing’s gonna grow very well. Suburban lawns are generally poor soil underneath. I suggest, if you are too broke to buy good dirt, you find a wild place that has good dirt, leaf litter, etc., and scrape it up and take it home even if it’s only 5 or 10 gallons at a time. This could be your summer project. Put a piece of cardboard down for sheet mulch, and dump this dirt on the cardboard and let the cardboard rot in. Then in August, plant the cold weather crops. In October, put some manure off to one side, it will rot all winter and be ready for spring. Or spread it on any fallow land. You can also plant buckwheat to “green manure” an area in late summer. Then plow it in in the spring. Hopefully you can get some grain out of it too.

    Plant potatoes one year, peas or beans the next year in the same spot. You need the beans to replenish the nutrients potatoes take out. You can have two spots and just keep switching them. Don’t plant onions near peas, it will retard their growth. Tomatoes like carrots but the carrots planted near tomatoes will be smaller. Mostly it’s for the benefit of the tomatoes.

    You can still plant late varieties of corn and most vegetables but time’s a wasting if you want a late summer harvest this year. You can put a homemade plastic tent greenhouse over any crops to extend their growing season when it starts getting cool out. Don’t wait until the balloon goes up to get some experience gardening. Try it now. You can also grow greens indoors in the winter – lettuce, radishes and the like. And you can grow sprouts, if you have enough seeds for that.

    My next project is going to be trying to make my own vinegar. But even without vinegar, fuel or a fridge you can preserve vegetables by turning them into kimchee or chowchow. Just slice them up, put them in salt water (with kosher or canning salt) so they’re submerged, and wait a couple weeks. Keep the lid on loose because it will bubble. You will get a white froth on top – this is a kind of yeast and is harmless. Just sort of scrape it aside when you get ready to eat the vegies.

    • Penny Pincher: Just curious – did you compare the prices/quantity and quality that Bill (Jebadiah Fisher) is offering versus the average seller on the prepper blogs?


      • The root vegie/sprout supermarket stuff strategy can be a supplement to buying seeds. And it’s a good skill to have practice in.

        Whether it’s worth it to you to buy a pound of one kind of seed: you have to think how many thousands of seeds there would be in even an ounce of seeds. (depends on the size of the seeds) and how big the plant is that you’ll be getting, and how much land you have.

        I bought around $100 worth of seeds from in winter of 2010-11 and this year I have second and third generation seeds from what I grew. One thing I bought in quantity was turnips because it’s carbs, and they’re easy to grow. I also planted one sunchoke plant 2 years ago and this year pickled something like 9 quarts of them. Those things are weeds, HARD to kill and most people would not recognize them as food plants. They also are a good secret store in winter, if you know where a stand of them is. I screwed up saving turnip seeds last year – I got like a quarter cup of them from one plant but they were still too wet when I packed them away in a jar, and they got moldy. Moisture content is important. Fortunately I still have large amounts of turnip seeds. The moral of that story is, hold back some seeds, don’t plant them all at once, and don’t depend on a crop to replace them.

        I guess buying large quantities of seeds depends on a few things. If you think there is a chance that the crash will be in the next few months, if you think you can repackage them for barter, or that you’ll be eating sprouts in your bunker all winter, or that you’ll end up on a farm with a lot of acreage, or something like that, then by all means buy large quantities of seeds. If we have a slow crash, you may end up sitting on pounds of seeds you have nowhere to plant, but if you can afford that risk, it might be worth it for the peace of mind.

        Whatever happens, plant some and get practice, and improve your dirt.

      • I just looked at their prices vs. and Jebadiah has cheaper prices, but fewer varieties. The ones he has are tried-and-true, common varieties. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. He needs to add turnips to his package.

  2. A great company. My order arrived about 3-5 days after I placed it.

  3. Michael Downing

    This is a terrific deal and last time he ran it I added two Patriot packages to my preps to supplement my previous purchase fo seeds. I see he has added corn to his offerings so I will place an order. Now all he needs to add is an heirloom winter squash for storage in the root cellar…

    • theelectorretards

      Mike you are correct, I am playing with an Heirloom variety right now, I planted it late and trying to keep it alive, it’s 101 today not including the heat index. I planted the Pink Banana winter squash. It’s expensive but it’s worth it. The winter squash grows to 70 pounds. I will work on getting some other varieties up.

      Mike also take advantage of the corn seed, I offer it at cost. I make zero from it. I know just how expensive Heirloom corn seed is and I wanted folks to be able to buy it cheap. I have had many folks send me what they are paying for one pound retail, some of it close to 70 bucks a pound.

      Thanks again CA and all of you that have placed orders.

      Bill Nye

  4. Just made my purchase. I had no idea that they were here in the great state of Texas… Keep your resolve fellow patriots.

  5. If you want to see some results from Bill’s seeds, head over to my place:

  6. Great Patriot, great company, absolute value. Got a bunch stocked. Will order from Bill again as soon as budget allows. DO IT PEOPLE.

  7. Bill is great to do business with. My order was delayed while he was waiting for his supplier to ship some seeds, and so he added considerably more seeds to my order at no extra charge. Great company.