Herschel: AR-15 Barrel Profiles And Buffers

Go and watch the vids.

Lots of options for lots of applications, as proven by the backstory.

But remember: if the wetware behind the buttplate can’t shoot, ’tis all for naught.

9 responses to “Herschel: AR-15 Barrel Profiles And Buffers

  1. #1: NO telescoping stocks!! A2 Full buttstock only!

    #2: Flattop upper if at all possible

    After that, build it up as you want!

    Yours in Daily Armed Liberty!
    NorthGunner III

    • Atlas Shrug

      Second try – first went to the great bit bucket in the sky….

      With all due respect, your comment #1 is a bit outdated. Yeah, a dozen years ago the AR run down in Boston’s Gun Bible was pretty good, but a lot of things have gotten better over the intervening years. While I could argue how (un)necessary a butt stroke to clear a stuck case may be, even if you require it you can go the Magpul UBR route – a bit heavy and a bit expensive but superior to an A1 or A2 butt stock in all ways except for storage capacity.

      Your #2 point however I would up from “if at all possible” to “required” and never look back.

      After that, go to the Brushbeater thread of a few weeks ago, linked in the sidebar here. Good info in main article and some of the comments as well.

      Keep your powder dry (and your AR stock adjustable),

      Atlas Shrug

  2. Nice refresher on the barrel design. We all develop favorites at some conscious level. For my m4s I prefer Noveske Afgan barrels, 14.5 with the gem tech brake, is 16.5. Or modern Colt barrels. I consider anything Colt to be the industry standard. Their’s a reason everybody try’s to builds to at least their standard. Good kit.

    I own like ten M4s each costing upwards of 2k, I try and use the best shit on the market. Sometimes those parts just don’t work harmoniously together, makes the rifle what I call choppy.

    I’ve gone to the heavy buffer systems and the three hole BCGs as the dwell hangs open a scosh longer, making info for a smoother recoil.

    I was using gas busters on the gas plug, I’m going away from those, which sucks, their Noveske made, and expensive. I don’t like them so much, they do exactly what I didn’t want to do, which is complicate, and I do t like the fact that their not a ” pinned” fromt gas block. Use to set screws, in dimples on the barrel. I do use red lock tight when setting the screws.

    Triggers, cheap triggers suck, we’ve all gone to straight triggers, world of difference, in pull and reset. Not cheap, but an upgrade that makes a difference to me.

    I like to build on Noveske VLTOR or Colt lowers, and only use VLTOR upper receivers. Just my preference, I also like only use VLTOR rails, they reach back and physically bolt to the existing upper pictinny. Make the front of the rifle a bit more ridged. Ridged increases accuracy.

    Magpul, is hard to beat for furniture. But not the only company. Again a personal choice.

    Suppressed my group only shoot suppressed anymore. We all have cans for our m4s, and our sniper riffles. Currantly sporting gem tech sand storms, the others are using YHM, thunderbeast and others they can afford. All are about the same DB on the range.

    We’re older and get cranky when some knucklehead forgets his can. Kinda screws up the harmonious day.

    I’ve been building m4s since the mid 80s. I’ve seen some real shit marketed. And I’ve learned that certain parts just don’t irk together, they shoot, but not in the sweet spot, I like.

    Shooting a well tuned, well maintained m4 is pure pleasure you can just feel the difference, and if your doing your part on the trigger, you hits are X zone consistently, any distance, you just feel it, the trigger surprise release, the dot, the recoil, the recovery, and impact. Sweet!

    Sorry I just like guns, and well made guns even better.


    • We put in the sopmod extractor kits. On my ar180b I had to leave the oring out, it wouldn’t reciprocate the bolt with it in place but used the rubber tit and five coil extractor spring

      Buddy has a mforgery and sopmod kit healed his steel case issues, but the heavier buffer was next on the list if that didn’t work.

  3. I buy what I can afford, put it together, upgrade as I can afford, and above all other considerations, my stuff has to work, in the field as well as the range, be easily fixed/replaced, consistently, and under any conditions. Love all that happy, expensive, and hard-to-replace-grid-down-dontcha-know-chief, crap, but I never was much on vanity. When I saw VC that were malnourished, and carrying a dirty AK-47, and 40 rounds of ammo, fighting US, I had an epiphany. Do what works, and forget the beauty contests. They’re still there, we’re all gone. Bohhhhhhhn, in the USA, Bohhhhn………

  4. Affording is big. Think your doing it right. In the 80s, I built some real trash rifles. All I could afford. By the time I could afford to build I had a pretty good idea what worked, what didn’t.

    The AK, own a bunch, I don’t change anything on the inside. I do add shorter more practical stocks, etc, etc. cheap, battle field accurate, a shoe string and motor oil, keeps em running.

    Some how I ended up with a bunch of Ol chi omega MAK90s, from the late 80s.

    My favorites are the Valmets talk about a well built rifle. Back then we could pick them up for a couple hundred bucks. And I did.

    Mayor, try the ” Crane” o ring kits, out of Mississippi. Significant upgrade. Keep several in your armors kit, for a rainy day.

    Not cheap but a great upgrade.

    Good looking guns are, hmmm most of mine a spray painted to match the turf. They look like shit.

    Good luck.


    • Might you share your current recipe if you were building a rifle today, with your specific recommendations on lowers, buttstocks, triggers, sights, rails, etc.?

      I’d build a post around it.

  5. Alfred E. Neuman

    Reblogged this on FOR GOD AND COUNTRY.