15 Fighters: The Warm Layer(s)

You know the drill – what works, why, and what does not.

Links matter a lot.

Headgear is next, so save hat commentary until next time.

77 responses to “15 Fighters: The Warm Layer(s)

  1. Silk, natural just works.


  2. Been using wool for years now. No more poly-pro. Expensive but nothing compares. 8 day hunts at 10000+ and lots of sweating. No stink. Quick rinse when applicable and good as new. Definitely a little more wear in high use areas like under backpack straps but the trade off is worth it. Warmth without bulk.

  3. Warm layers depend on climate just as much as dry layers do….what temp range are we envisioning?

    • Max cold: -10F

      Dry cold

      Wet cold

      • A friend of mine worked in northern Canada on an oil exploration seismic crew. None of them wore any goose down clothing because it absorbed perspiration and became useless. Wool, and now high loft synthetics insulation works and has little to no moisture absorption.

        Silk for first layer of socks is good, I’d go with some Patagonia or equivalent two piece long underwear. Make sure it doesn’t shrink any (that is allow for some weight gain, y’all won’t be 50 for ever)

        I do need to get my winter insulated boots resoled, I don’t buy boots that can’t be resoled. There are far too many boots sold today with moulded on soles, most made in China.

        These Danner boots, available in EE widths, are the most comfortable I’ve worn in years. They’re good three season boots for the south, fully lined with Gortex.

        • lastmanstanding

          Check out Danner’s website…www.danner.com

          They have many boots/shoes on clearance. Some of the stuff is 30-50% off. Not all sizes but there are some really good deals to be had on many styles.

          By direct from them, free shipping, free returns.

          To hell with chetozos and amazog.

      • Dry cold: -18F Split wood for an hour, or all day…only t-shirt with button down wool shirt, gloves and wool hat, carhart pants, unlaced boots. No wind.

        Wet cold: 18F No wood spitting unless absolutely necessary Too cold.

  4. Wool. e.g. Stanfields from Canada. It still insulates when wet. The “lightweight” wool looks gossamer thin but is warmer than anything else for the weight and it breathes so when you sweat it can evaporate. Wool works because the fibers are microscopicly spiky, almost like a layer or down feathers keeping heat in. It does need some care with washing, but so does most other fabrics. Also applies to socks.

  5. The Walkin' Dude

    For happyfunball research… if someone say… shot 00BK from a vehicle at a target, ensuring the shells ejected into the vehicle for future recovery/destruction, would the wad still be traceable to a particular shotgun? Obviously the shot wouldn’t. Again, just asking for educational purposes 🙂

    • Not if you reload with flat cardboard wads to ensure maximum spread…

      • Do any of the shell companies use flat cardboard wads, or are they hand loads only?

        • Not that I know of right now.

          You can pop the crimp, use a pair of needle-nose to remove the plastic wad, pack a black-powder card “wad” or two on top of the powder, replace shot with same weight of buckshot, another card if shot column is too short, and recrimp…. if you don’t have a reloader.

          Cards are cheap, usually $10 or so for a thousand, and you can use the cheap Wally-World target shot to turn into hallway-clearing rounds, with patience.


          • The Walkin' Dude

            Nice. So essentially it wouldnt matter if one used slugs either as they do not directly engage any rifling (if present). Back to ironing my clothes… OUCH!

    • Personally, I wouldn’t worry much with a shotgun. No rifling to mar the cup, no forensics to find. What’re they gonna do– stop at every house and seize the shotguns to test? Same with rifles/pistols, IMO: they can’t stop and frisk everyone to find the weapon, so how is the weapon discovered? (It’s the same for a shotgun, bow and arrow, slingshot, etc.)…

      …Someone talks.

  6. Silk is amazing. It is quite durable. The Mongols used to pull arrows out of their warriors by using the silk tunic they wore. Quite warm for as thin as it is yet cool when it is hot. It doesn’t hold heat as well as wool does when damp and for that reason I am big on wool because let’s face it, you get wet in the woods. But I love my silk over-shirts. Especially in the city to use as a cover for concealed carry. Silk and wool are the way to go. When deer hunting in the rain I wear wool under a GI poncho and fatigues. When hunting in the dry I use silk as an under garment.

  7. 10 years good enough? Have had one pair at least that long. Look for a high thread count. Have a silk night short worn daily and on year 3 with it.

    • I’m still using the long johns I was issued in basic training, 1964. Two pair left of the four I was issued. Absolutely nothing wrong with the longevity of wool when properly cared for.

  8. Gotta protect the neck, much heat is lost there. Your father’s 1943-issue Navy silk scarf, wound around the neck three times and knotted at the bottom just so, does real well at keeping in heat. Neck gaitors work well also, different weights for different weather. Don’t get them too short. Polypro beats wool for density. My latest is a heavy one made by re-sewing the sleeve of a polyfleece jacket whose zipper went TU. Make these things yourself. Or buy something off the net.

    Wind pants are a nice thing. What you’re looking for, is a tight weave and a full cut. Full enough, and with good enough waist adjustment, that an insulating layer (in addition to light polypro worn six (+) months of the year) can be comfortably worn beneath the wind pants. This layer can be heavy and baggy wool long johns or quilted pants used by some militaries. The US uses pant liners for their cold weather trousers which are made like a field jacket liner and about as useful.

    The British Army makes some nice wind-resistant pants in both their desert and their green patterns. Waist adjustment is good enough that they can be worn winter and summer. Their quilted liners are real nice: built better than USGI, and with total zip sides. A great design, they can be unzipped and removed without having to take off boots and trousers. And the desert pattern works decently in a western mixed-winter environment, as do the US Chocolate Chip and DCU patterns.

    A place in Maryland called keepshooting.com used to sell British clothing (smocks and pants.). Maybe they still do.

  9. Patagonia capilene has worked well for me over the years. Everything from winter bow season and mostly stationary to biathlon and ski-arc training . A little pricey for the 15 fighters concept probably, so that leaves some type of polypropylene most likely. If you need flame resistant stuff, we use longies from Drifire at work. Not sure if they still make them. https://www.patagonia.com/capilene-polyester-baselayer.html

  10. Merino wool for me. You can find it in blends with poly at Sam’s Clubs for $15-20/piece. Very durable.

  11. I like silk but find Merino wool more durable both are not cheap.

  12. USGI wool cotton blend long johns, getting harder to find but WELL worth the effort. USGI M-1951 wool uniform. M-1951 cotton field pants and field jacket with wool inserts. USGI black “mickey mouse” -20deg F. boots. Your choice of wool lined hat or helmet liner under your hood. Good from 40 above to 20 below zero F. Add raingear over it and you have the wet cold uniform. Add white -60degT “bunny” boots and over whites with the fur lined hood and optional M1951 “fishtail” parka+ liner and you are good to -60deg.F. That is the “dry cold uniform”. I managed to put that entire issue together last year. 5 set long johns. 5 sets wool uniform. field pants and liner. Field jacket and wool liner. M1951 fishtail parka and wool liner +hood . Helmet liner and both sets of mittens. Trigger finger and arctic. Both sets of boots, ALL of it .The whole TA-50. Why? because it is the best cold gear ever created. I also have all the other winter gear. Ruck, Stove ,arctic sleeping bag(tested to -25DegF.) Snow shoes , Arctic cook set One and two burner “colman” type stoves and mountain tent. Now if I can do that in one year with ANTIQUES. What could y’all get together if you really try?

    • ‘Zactly this. And for testing, spend a windy day ice fishing. You’ll find what works well for you.

  13. Johnny Paratrooper

    I recommend good top layers. They are easy to take on and off as needed.
    Good gloves and earmuffs(I use the super operator Swiss made tactical E-Muffs) they keep my ears nice and warm. A camouflage hoodie would probably work well. But I don’t own one.
    Also, you can wrap yourself in a fleece blanket or a wobbie when you take a tactical pause.
    I carry an extra wet weather bag to sit on or put my pack or armor on in case the ground is wet. A tarp is better, but obviously takes up more space and is a little large.
    U.S. Military issue Camo Poncho makes a better tent than you would think. It’s hard to see with Night Vision. They work pretty well. Carry an extra for the ground.
    I sleep naked, and/or in a pair of sweat pants with fitted underwear on. Just in case I shit myself to death. Makes cleaning the sleeping bag easier.

    I recommend emptying some cans of silicone tent spray into your armor rigs , your field jacket, and your assault packs.

    • Where are you planning on going where it is so cold?

      Better to stay inside, where it’s warmer and safer even if the power is out.

      The Walking Dead was fake. I’m not talking about undead zombies. I’m talking about how the characters were continually going outside and camping in the woods, putting themselves in danger, instead of staying put inside buildings with concrete walls.

      • Some of us just live where it’s cold a good portion of the year. And while we do have homes, we may have to leave them, to hunt or patrol, or simply gather fuel.

        It’s about as useful to tell us to up and move somewhere warm as it is for me to tell you to move to my location.

  14. Seraphim of Sarov

    The secret sauce to staying warm is moisture control. Synthetics synthetics synthetics. Heat the core to heat the extremities.

    No cotton thermals. I don’t even like cotton underwear.

    Long sleeve underarmor muscle shirts and faggotity ass spandex pants is the base layer the tighter fitting the better, with a polyfil (synthetic cotton made of polyester) poofy coat. Synthetic fleece is good, but you gotta shed layers if you start to sweat. Pants are snow suit material (nylon maybe?).

    Wool socks.

    I even like rubber muck boots. Merely walking acts like an air pump, sending moist air out by your calf.

  15. I’m using 32 Heat top and leotards, down jacket and a winter coat. Iowa, Wisconsin, Illini and Indiana have been 20☃️❄️💨 degrees, down to zero and minus below zero. Wool socks and Khombu hiking boots. Army fleece cap replaced with a thick knit synthetic cap made in Zhonghua. Any gloves which are fabric, unless handling snow covered stuff.

    I wouldn’t want to be overnight in that weather, but for a truck driver doing outdoor work I was warm. Dickies and face masks neoprene are a good idea. Eyewear, because first stage frostbite can affect the liquid in the eyes, possibly permanent blindness.

    The best way to stay warm in this weather is to NOT be in this weather!

  16. I know nothing about the company, but the base layers and outer layers are priced reasonable, and I have some sets of polypro that are over ten years old that still work very well for cold weather.


  17. lastmanstanding

    By far the best for me has been Patagonia capilene. Bottoms and tops. Regular or zip. The heavier cap as well. I have had base layers that I have literally worn for 20 years. Not worn year around but can honestly say that they have been worn, machine washed and dried 30 times a year. Some I wear year around. Yes, some have frayed but still keep me warm and dry. They have saved my ass in a bad deal numerous times.

    I am within striking range of a Pataguch outlet store. They have 5 day sales at Prez day, Memorial Day and Labor day. 40-50% off the lowest marked price. I have purchased #1 zip tee’s for under $20. Lots of times. Cap tee’s for $7. Lots of times. I have purchased capilene fleece, regular $60, 80+ for under $20. Lots of times. You just have to check it out. You can do the same on line. Maybe not the color you want but the deals are there. Some of it maybe from several years ago, but is overstock and brand new. Look for these types of deals at ALL the major distributors. They continue to crank it out every single year in mass quantities. Market oversaturated, extreme deals if you do diligence and are patient.

    I got may-tagged in a rapid one eve on an early season fishing trip. Water was below 50 degrees. Was wearing a cotton tee and had a light weight capilene fleece with me. Temp was 50, dropping fast and I was miles from my rig. I took off the tee, wrung out the fleece and put it on. Within mins., it began to dry and kept me quite warm. I was actually quite surprised how warm. One of those times when you think your invincible and live to learn a valuable lesson.

    Duckworth wool is another great layer, but hard to find a “steal”. Won’t stink/smell like capilene but ultra-warm. Montana grown wool from Beaverhead valley. They have a newsletter with latest deals. Still very spendy.

  18. I lived in the far north and northwest Alaska for years. I know my thought is not popular or modern, but I prefer cotton and cotton products, and some quality wool. I speak from experience.

    • Frank, id love to hear your rationale on wearing cotton in a damp cold, as in Alaska?

      Thank you in advance.


      • Hi Dirk. To a certain extent cotton and wool will wick moisture in a damp cold. But in the very cold areas, let’s say -20 and below, damp is not an issue, the moisture is extracted from the air. Many people have sinus problems from dry air in the very cold areas.

        My first stay in Alaska, up around Kotzebue, I tried all the polypropylene and other modern type clothing. A local man told me, wear cotton, you’re a big man, you can carry it. I stayed with cotton after that.

        My experiences range ambient temperature -60F and up. Pack boots, I wore the Sorel Caribou. My gloves were leather mittens with a animal fleece interior and cotton inserts. My hat, for milder cold, -20 and up, was an acrylic toboggan/tube hat with a polyester liner for wind. My cold weather hat was a beaver skin with a quilted lining and velvet cover that my wife made.

        I wore flannel lined cotton jeans, cotton underwear, cotton sweatshirts. My coat and snow pants had a flannel lining and the exterior was a polyester type product with a gortex lining.

        A damp climate does not exist in the real cold parts of Alaska where we spent our time, from Barrow around the coast down to Dillingham.

        Take care, Frank

    • Still living up here Frank? Nome?

      Cotton is nice in front of the wood stove and in bed. Working outside in 40 below, not so much. Running to the privy in cotton long johns in -30F is OK too if you get your business done in a hurry…and you will, because you timed it that way. I speak from experience.

      • Hello. No, I am not in Nome any longer, but I did spend a year there. I have no experience with an outdoor privy, not at -30F anyway. But I did like the cotton for my outside excursions, which did include snow machine wear and tear. Some people like Fords, some people like Chevys, or in this case, some people like Polaris and some people like Yamaha. It was my choice to wear cotton. Stay warm. Take care, Frank

  19. It took me a long time to decide to spend $100 on a set of ColdPruf Merino Wool tops and bottoms. Like many other expensive things in life, I wish that I had spent the money sooner. They wick moisture, keep you warm, breathe well, and don’t stink after a few days like the synthetics do. Since buying these, I’ve been buying Merino wool underwear from Icebreaker (at $35.00 per pop) for daily wear, as well as Vermont Darn Tough socks.
    For years, I’d heard about how heavy wool is when it’s wet, blah blah blah, but I haven’t really found that to be the case. Wool is largely water shedding and doesn’t hold on to water. Even my heavy Filson coat doesn’t get all that wet in the rain.
    When I first got the Merino base layer, I washed my briefs, shirt, and bottoms, threw them on wet, put normal clothes over them and went for a 2.5 mile ruck. I could visibly feel the fabric drying as my body heat warmed it up and dried it out. By the time I got home, I was completely dry. I generate a lot of heat, and with cotton underwear my crotch is always wet and never dries. The wool underwear has killed that. I’ll get damp during exercise and then dry out fairly rapidly. This is incredibly important for time spent in the field to prevent crotch rot when daily bathing isn’t an option. Additionally, the smell control is important tactically and it’s great for morale. I love being out in the field for days wearing wool and not having dick stank when I come in.

    • lastmanstanding

      Check out Duckworth. http://www.duckworth.com Sheep born, raised and sheared in Beaverhead Valley near Dillion, Mt. They have a news letter that gets sent out with specials/clearance.

      I have a few items and they are great. Just hard to get a steal on the goods.

      “Dick stank” lol…not as bad as butt stank!…you definitely live in Montana.

  20. Little Dixie

    I work in Agriculture and spend my winter mornings checking cattle on an atv in SE OK. Our seasons here are Almost Summer, Summer, Still Summer and Winter and the Winters can stink. I wear 3 layers of the thin to medium weight underwear bottoms that is sold by Cabelas. 2 of these bottoms are silky to the touch, but they are full synthetic. Over these I wear just a thin pair of camo overalls. I stay plenty warm and have excellent mobility. On top I wear a cotton t-shirt and one or two thin to medium weight long sleeve underwear shirts sold by Cabelas. Over this I wear an insulated camo Hooded Parka Coat with big pockets to warm hands sold by Cabelas. Wool blend socks and Woody Max Insulated Muck Rubber boots. I used to wear heavy Carhartt products which are very good, but I now prefer many thin layers that can be peeled of as needed. Wind is the enemy. Make sure your outer layer will block wind. God bless us. P.S. I don’t work for Cabelas, but their hunting clothing will keep you warm and will stand up to daily winter use for years.

  21. See hot chillies base layers. Then recognize that ANY and ALL “systems” are subject to failure depending on effort and pace involved and temps. You must learn to recognize your bodie’s generation of sweat production and respond/mitigate before you start exuding equine essence. In other words take the shit off before you start up the steep grade. I keep space in my pack on the outer level to hold those items (outside large pocket area on pack). Put back on after you cross the summit. Your layers are your exhaust valve. Same goes for your hat.

    Or you could just sweat like fuck and get everything wet on the inside.

  22. Wool, military surplus when you can find it, merino if you can afford it, wool blends if you can’t. Look at European surplus, I have 1/4 zip thin rib knit sweaters that fit tight as a base layer and they are warm as hell. I love my heavy M-1951 Wool Shirt, but they are getting impossible to find for anyone larger than X-Small, but that makes it a good option for your younger Yoots. Natural anti-bacterial fibers will help with winter hygiene in a prolonged situation. Poly Fleece is warm, but stinks to high hell in a few days of activity, and melts quite easily.

  23. military poly pro….works….just don’t catch on fire….

  24. Merino wool. I recommend minus33.

  25. Pretty from a value standpoint, your local Army/Navy store wins. Surplus ECWCS level 1 and 2 tops and bottoms can be had for $5-10 a piece, plus a field jacket liner for right around $10. The old school liner is more durable and packs smaller than the newer fleece jackets.

    Combining those five items beneath proper outer layers with good head/hand/foot gear and you should be good down to zero. If you can find the field pants liner, that’ll help you go even lower. Total for base and insulating layer puts you around $50 by estimating from cursory Google searches.

    • Johnny Paratrooper

      I think the ECWS retails for $700. You should just buy the whole thing. The nice thing about the ECWS is you can put it on, and then pass out next to a tree. No sleeping bag needed. It’s like wearing a sleeping bag.

      I need to make a Surplus store trip.

      I love the surplus store. I found an Aimpoint 3X and a Surefire light for $200 bucks at a surplus store once.


  26. It’s been our habit to wear silk. It’s tough rugged, and very warm. I’ve tried em all. We tend to go with natural stuff for under layers. I’ve still got a set of,silk from 1983. In years past we did a lot of cross country skiing and down hill. Wicks sweat well, tends to not ” wade up”

    Other then discoloration tops and bottoms are totally funtional. Like anything else if you take care of your kit it tends to last along long time. Also a big fan of wool and blends.

    I have poly prop, and others I just prefer silk. A good sets not cheap, but in my humble opinion you get what you pay for.

    Hope this helps.


      • Move south. Warm clothes not needed.

        Those of you in cold places where survival skills could be handy are lucky enough to not need to fear zombie apocalypse. Africans on EBT cards are the zombies. Only the cities need be concerned.

        Everyone here has wasted years preparing for living in a grid down environment while smart Jews were busy gathering billions of dollars by winning at the game as it currently exists.

        • Don’t know if you consider the D/FW area “south” or not, but it’s where I (female) live and in the cold season I am NEVER warm enough til under-the-covers at night. Doesn’t matter how many layers, or what they are made of, so I find the suggestions here well worth considering and have just now looked at theat Montana company to find they are “moving their warehouse” and I missed their big clearance sale.

          I “inherited” a Merino-wool (“SmartWool”) longsleeve undershirt from my daughter (who it was gifted to, not by me!) and though it is a bit too small, have found it really nice as a first-layer. NOTE: it did take a bit of getting used to, as in I could “feel the wooliness” of it the first day I wore it, now I don’t. I have had a couple of different weight socks from SmartWool, now, for 5-8 years and like them a lot.

          Crazy as $100 sounds for a Merino wool undershirt (that’s about what the new Ladies SmartWool one is…I looked it up when I grabbed it from my daughter, as I recognized the logo on the cuff), if it works, it’s worth it.

          With all the positive press here, for SILK, I may give that a try. I have only ever enjoyed it in “outer wear” ’til now.

          Thanks for all the real world ideas on keeping dry and warm. Also, yes, I’m tired of “prepping” (since just before Y2K!) seemingly for naught, as well, so have decided to try and “enjoy the decline” with one eye open.

          p.s. Our seasons are: Nice (2 weeks in spring & 2 weeks in fall); Blazing Hot; Rainy Cold (with about 1 dusting of snow a year).

  27. Where is our “we’re all gonna die” Ebola update?

  28. The best comment I’ve seen was “America being armed with 100 million guns didn’t stop us from becoming a communist country.”

    I don’t think the civil war you fantasize about will happen. Should have happened in 2008 or 1996.

    • I think the best one is “we can vote our way into communism, but we’ll have to shoot our way out of communism.”

  29. Another vote for a Merino wool. Picked up some long underwear overseas while vacationing this winter.


    It’s very popular in Finland . Sold in all the stores , but shopped at the local Army Surplus , naturally 🙂

  30. One item that’s rarely thought of for both wet/dry cold are the disposable hand warmers. My personal preference is the 12 hour version in the small (for pockets & hypothermia relief) and the large ones for warming up when sleeping in very, very cold areas. Figure about $15 per person; can be had at any store with a sporting goods section. In winter training, I highly encourage people to carry 4 packs of each type for a 3 day outing. Others mileage may vary.

    Both dry and wet cold have an ally that must be defeated to stay warm: Wind. Outer clothing, such as a Brit windproof smock (not the commercial models, but the real surplus models) make a superb wind stopper that still breathes and repels moisture.

    Silk is great, but try to stay away from the ultralight weight silk. Medium weight pure silk is much better. Any more than that, and in combination with your outer layers, you’ll be sweating your ass off in no time. Anymore, it’s hard to find anything but varying degrees of a silk blend. Prices are all over the place. Others have also said, and I wholeheartedly agree, nothing cotton, aka, the cloth of death (at least in cold, wet conditions).

    Jacket liners: Wiggys. Period. One of those under a smock or another jacket, such as the old school M65, and you’re good to go so long as you’ve got a couple of light layers under that (I’m talking sub -10 if you’re moving).

    Boots: If one is going bargain basement on anything, it should NOT be winter boots. Schnee’s is about the best bang for the buck, but you’ll buy once, cry once. $360 at their site. Mine are 4 years old and look new. I’ve been out in some really deep cold and snow with them. I’ve never had to wear more than one pair of merino wool winter socks. Typically from Darn Tough. Nice thing about Schnee’s is they’re can be rebuilt. I’d also consider getting a spare set of liners so that one might dry one pair out after a couple days.

    Socks: Merino Wool blend, 3 or 4 season. Depending on how hot you run, you might want the 3 season. That’s what I use and they haven’t failed me yet. If you run cold, get the 4 season. A tad thicker, and a whole lot more warmth. I am a ‘Vermont Darn Tough’ socks fan. Especially as they have an unlimited lifetime warranty (which means that until the SHTF, you can get a brand new pair free if ANYTHING goes wrong with them, no questions asked – just send them back clean – really, they’ll tell you that they get dirty socks back – which by the way, voids the warranty, and I don’t blame them!).

    Hands: A pair of glove liners (silk or silk with nylon is good) to keep your hands from sticking to things in extreme cold, and then, good old fashioned USGI mittens with trigger fingers and pure wool liners. Best thing since sliced bread. They can be had as a set for around $20 or so; sometimes more, sometimes less, depending. If you look, you can find the older PURE wool liners, which are much better than the 50/50 wool/nylon blend. I also recommend carrying a spare set of liners for the mittens, and as has been suggested earlier, coating the cloth upper with Kamp Dry or something along those lines. The leather mits can be lightly coated (and I do mean lightly) with sno-seal or other leather waterproofing substance.

    Face Mask: Anything commercial that keeps the skin from getting frost bitten. I prefer silk, but have had mine for years now. Even the old USGI white arctic mask is good, so long as you have the breather (surgical mask) with it. They’re great for sleeping out in the cold, by the way.

    Eyes: USGI Dust/Wind/Snow goggles. New or old style, just make sure you have both clear and tinted lenses for snow blindness. Clear is really great for night movement also, in that you don’t get your eyes poked. The goggles cover more of your face than the newer ‘operator’ glasses do, and thereby afford more protection from the cold. Treat them with an anti-fogging agent. Both types go easily over eye glasses. Can’t lose, and they’re about $20 if you look.

    Pants: USGI wool field pants – buy them big if you’re going to wear long johns or a very light pant under them. I got my most recent pair at a local flea market, new, for $10. Just gotta keep your eyes open.

    Sorry about no links this time; in a hurry.

  31. Joshua wuttke

    The gen 3 ecws is pretty good from the us army. Mindful you need the artic boots which offer zero comfort in stock configuration. The gear can be acquired pretty easily and cheap if you can find a decent surplus store.

  32. not to be a snit, but i will ask the question again…….where do i find 15 like minded fighters? even out here in the desert southwest ain’t nuttin but old libs commies and useless snowbirds

  33. If I can keep my head and hands warm, my feet stay warm. I’ll often wear two beanies, and a neck gater, to regulate in anything under 10. I also Carry a cover layer in the top of my pack, a rubberized poncho and a couple 2×2 one 3×3 chunks of old ground Mat, to sit on in snow, or ice.

    While SURPLUS military stuff is serviceable, the cold weather clothing industry is way ahead of mil surplus.


  34. Garry F. Owen, Trooper

    Ok, I’m not really tech savvy, so pardon the lack of links. http://www.varusteleka.com has great deals on 80/20 merino wool and polyester thermals. It is a Finnish company that supplies their conscripted army. The in-house brand Sarma TST is what you want. In my AO, short sleeve and long boxer length will work. I’m wearing the black t-shirt, and there is absolutely no itch. Euro to dollar conversion makes the shirt $34.00 and the boxers $37.00. With $9.99 flat rate shipping, it definitely beats American competition of $75.00- $100.00 per piece for comparable items.

  35. Alfred E. Neuman

    Reblogged this on FOR GOD AND COUNTRY.

  36. What little more I can add…. do not know why they are not popular in the northern U.S. climes, but a read-deal fur ushanka is hands down the warmest hat I’ve ever had. Have had one now for nearly 20 years. -40F/C ain’t nothing for it. Warm as hell. They come in different flavors; believe mine is made of muskrat. Wish I would’ve picked up more the last time I was walking in the former Soviet Union.

  37. Name (required)

    Polypropylene is warm, light, dries fast, doesn’t itch. It melts and drips as it burns. With wool and nomex, you might survive a fire. I have FR long johns, mostly rayon, and they work fine in the cold. My neck gaiter and hat are nomex fleece; again, at least as good as polypro.

  38. What does anyone know re: Gatorskins? Gatorskinsusa.com

  39. US steps up winter-warfare training as global threat shifts


    • Mullen recalled speaking to a commander in Ukraine in the aftermath of Russia’s annexation of Crimea. “He said that within two minutes of keying his handset he had rockets coming in on his position,”