15 Fighters: PPE

Having done helmets, ears, body armor, more body armor, and eyes on other occasions, a reader last week asked for suggestions on practical gloves for fighting Commies.

Let’s expand the topic to elbow pads, kneepads, blood-borne pathogens exposure, and any other kit designed to mitigate the wear and tear of shooting and others shooting back.

Links make your points best.


20 responses to “15 Fighters: PPE

  1. Pingback: 15 Fighters: Series Collection | Western Rifle Shooters Association

  2. I’m old guy. Best I’ve ever used are USGI flight gloves. Nomex. Good dexterity. Leather where they need it.
    I’ve got some others (rope gloves for one) and I’m interested in some of the newer stuff I see, but good enough is usually good enough

  3. No links, but anecdotally, I knew a guy who’d pick fights with the crust punks and junkies outside of music venues back in the 90s. He would wear latex gloves inside of leather construction gloves so as to avoid disease.

    Another fun thing about construction gloves is that they don’t look out of place hanging out of your back pocket, even if they’re full of sand or rolls of quarters.

    Strongly recommend post-exposure treatment and testing in the event you do come into contact with any bodily fluids. The rates of HIV and HCV are astounding right now thanks to the opiate plague.

  4. Gloves- lots and Xlarge. I go thru at least 24 pair in 8hr shift. Can’t wear very long due to sweating and no air on skin. Stay away from 5mil cheapy, go with 9mil black like LEOs wear for addicts etc. (better tear resistance). Double gloving is good for this and changing subjects/patients quickly.

  5. Rector pro pads for knees and elbows.

  6. a follower

    World War 3, Ebola Spreading Too Fast, Israel and USA Alliance

    • Ebola is spreading “too fast”?!?
      What the actual fuck is that supposed to mean?
      Separately, the words are in English, but put together like that, they are devoid of any actual meaning.
      The current outbreak in DRC is spreading glacially slowly, due in no small part to a functionally effective experimental vaccine.
      It’s spreading at all because it keeps cropping up amidst a population of pre-literate anti-scientific fucktards who need to take off their shoes (if they own any) to count to twenty, who keep licking the corpses and burning down the treatment centers.
      Spreading fast is the one thing it’s not doing, and that saving grace is the only reason Africa isn’t wholly uninhabited from Capetown to Khartoum.
      So that title is nothing but clickbait bullshit, and there’s no verbal gymnastics possible in the video to salvage such an obvious bullshit narrative.

      • 100% fucking A right. You forgot to mention that for all the fear mongering about EBOLA!! The pathogen has been ravaging the Congo for more than 100 years and is still about 200 miles from the place that patient “zero” was believed to be infected. It has never spread much past the cannibal’s in central Africa. Two words tell the whole story. “Bush Meat”. This is the one part of Africa where eating other humanoids is considered normal.

        • Actually, it’s made it to Madrid. And Dallas. Among other places.
          But it’s not spreading fast, let alone “too fast” (as if there’s speed of transmission that’s “just right”, besides “not at all”).

          What it’s also not doing is going away any time soon.

          That’s going to present a problem eventually.

          And in 50% of confirmed cases for this outbreak, no fever is noted.
          Now, guess what the only symptom is that they screen for at airports.

          • There are many intelligent and valuable nurses.… but then there are the “1%” with clipboards and inflated self-assessments, valueless unless they are doing housework.

            The know-it-alls are unable to understand “too fast [compared to the epidemiologic model],” “faster [than predicted],” “slower [than expected],” et al.

            Go make a sandwich for your man.

            • Shush. Grown-ups are talking.

              As if you had the slightest idea WTF you’re babbling about, or how asinine what you wrote sounds to people who do know. When a virus doesn’t follow an epidemiological model, the virus isn’t the problem. The map is not the terrain.

              The correct response in that instance would be to admit error as an epidemiologist, not to stupidly attempt to blame the virus for having the temerity to contradict your bullshit. If you grasped Jack or Shit about the subject, you’d have known that before publicly pulling your pants down and spanking yourself like this in front of everybody, and then swinging after the bell, as if you could fix the hole you’re in if only you keep digging.
              {cf.: Glo-bull Warmist Hoaxing}

              Go back to tongue-bathing your fellow lackwits, and explaining to everyone that the JOOOOOOOOOS! secretly run the entire planet.
              You’re the George Noory of the Stormfront set, with the sort of intellect best explained by fetal alcohol syndrome and a steady diet of lead paint chips.

              Probably best for you not to advertise that quite so widely, and maybe spare the waste of bandwidth and killing electrons on the internet that never did you any harm.

  7. Practical Man

    Safety glasses are very important. I like these because of the dual bifocal that allows one to focus at a specific distance. Front sight post or overhead work. Get the diopter that works for you. The also protect you from fluid splashes and spall; not to mention branches and stickers.


    Gloves. Any thin leather work glove from your farm supply or big box store works great. Cowhide seems to last longest. I used to use mechanix brand gloves but he don’t last very long. Same for Nomex flight gloves: durability is low.

    N95 masks. Surprising how often these come in handy. Good for dust or non-solvent aerosols. Cheap to keep on hand. Useful in the shop or other high dust environments. https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/3M-3M-N95-Disposable-Particulate-WP43528/_/N-1acp?searchRedirect=dust+masks&breadcrumbCatId=9478&fromPidp=true&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4JF99_AS01?$smthumb$webparentimage$

    Knee and elbow pads never seem to fit well and are uncomfortable. I use the hard cap type knee pads for carpentry or tile work. Occasionally I use them on gravel areas when working on or under equipment. Something like this https://m.lowes.com/pd/AWP-Non-Marring-Plastic-Cap-Knee-Pads/50175687

    • P-Man … I’ve used MacGuire – Nicholas Monster knee pads for a long time. used to be available at Home Depot, no more. They have a flat cross section so they don’t roll when kneeling. Patella cover. Easy on easy off. Rattle-cans can cammy them up nicely. Comfortable. Durable. Cheap ~ $20 to $25. You’ll like

  8. oregon farmer

    In addition to all the very useful threads on gear, coms, ammo, rifles etc. I’d like to see a thread on the utility of various types of DOGS for post SHTF scenarios. Having been in a few very fucked up turd world shitholes, one commonality I’ve observed in the poorest communities are numerous big mean dogs everywhere, that also are very loyal to their masters. They sleep with one eye open and if you’re trying to sneak up on their family they WILL fuck you over good.

  9. I’ve always used Mechanix brand Fast Fit gloves. No velcro to mess with, and durability is pretty good. I have several dozen pair around the homestead that see hard use, and they seem to last pretty well. Can be found for $10/pair pretty easily, and if you pay attention you can find sales of two or three packs for the same price a few times a year. For tactical stuff, they provide enough dexterity if you get the right size (they should be tight on the fingers without cutting off circulation. I’ve also used batting gloves for tactical use, which conveniently go on clearance at most sporting goods stores right after baseball season. They’re more durable than Mechanix, and again if fit is correct you have really good dexterity. If you’re talking hand pro against blood-borne pathogens, any latex or non-latex gloves designed for mechanics to wear are good, but you do go through them by the box load when it’s sweaty weather outside. Harbor Freight is a good source for latex gloves by the box, most auto parts stores want to charge and arm and a leg for the same thing in smaller quantities.

  10. Mechanix tactical gloves. They also come in different Camo patterns to fit your AO. For the price they are some of the best.

    I like the WileyXs even better but they cost more than twice as much and are not as durable as you’d expect for the price. But they are better for punching as a nice side benefit:

    As for Knee pads the USGI Altas are robust but for many folks dont fit real well.. and dropdown.. ( though the trick is tighten the LOWER not the upper bands..
    A basic/cheap foam insert into surplus army pants that can the pocket for them work good enough too for 8/10 cases

  11. Alfred E. Neuman

    Reblogged this on FOR GOD AND COUNTRY.

  12. Oregon Hobo

    Like most Chinese merch, you can buy Mechanix gloves for a few $$ ea on Alibaba, especially in quantity. They’re great gloves for the price… extra protection in key spots, desirable color schemes, and remarkably good dexterity, assuming proper fit. Buy at bulk pricing, stock deep.

    At the far opposite end of the cost spectrum, I love me some Alpinestars gauntlet-style motorcycle gloves. They have excellent protection extending well past those delicate bones in the wrists, with carbon-fiber knuckle guards, and lower palm sliders for abrupt dives into prone on pavement or concrete, but with fine finger dexterity comparable to or better than Mechanix. Mine have functioned outstandingly at keeping my hand parts intact and inside their respective skin bags.

    May need aftermarket coloring modifications to suit less flashy aesthetic sensibilities. $100 in the link below is the cheapest I’ve seen new. Those who’ve used them don’t have to ask why.

    FWIW I take it as a given that finger dexterity will inevitably be a trade-off against durability. Those areas on the upper palms and inner surfaces of the fingers that take heavy wear and tear from exerting a manly grip on tools and materials are the same surfaces that must be thinner in order to minimize interference with grip and fine finger movement/sensitivity.

    Accordingly, both of the gloves I mentioned offer good-to-excellent protection on common impact areas, ie lower palms and backs of the hands/knuckles/fingers, but prioritize dexterity on the contact surfaces of the upper palm and inner fingers, as appropriate to fighting gloves. Neither will function for long as a heavy work glove.

    Mechanix for training and charity to kith/kin, Alpinestars for special occasions, Harbor Freight clearance rack for clearing brush and shoveling the chicken coop.

  13. Latex is a fool’s errand for gloves.
    1) You risk a severe and permanent dermatitis any time you expose yourself to it. No one uses it professionally if they can help it.
    2) It starts weakening and breaking down starting the day it’s made. After several months, even under best storage conditions, the product is generally worthless. If you bought low-budget shit, a lot shorter timespan than that. Including pinhole gaps, which means you’re wearing latex mesh pantyhose, not a fluid barrier, and will find out in the least fun way, when it counts.
    3) Nitrile is what you want: it lasts longer, and avoids the latex allergy problems, for minor incidental contact.
    4) For those with prior service in the dot mil, no points for knowing that the CBRN overgloves were heavy butyl rubber.

    Those are for serious chemical problems, and should be worn inside an oversized sacrificial pair of heavy leather gloves, lest you puncture them while working with anything sharp or high-stress.

    N95 masks are a minimum, and will work for TB and ordinary minor exposures like colds and flu.
    If anything more serious is about, you want N100/P100 filtration, followed if necessary by a mask rocking a combination acid gas/organic vapor cartridge.

    In some environments, the half life of your filter may be measured in minutes, and nothing but a dedicated air SCBA will suffice.

    If you aren’t going to learn enough to be your own NBC NCO, you’re setting yourself up to fail, in a situation where fail=die.
    possibly twitching and jerking in convulsions, or a slow, agonizing debilitation from a hemorrhagic fever.
    You can’t half-ass that stuff, unless you have a death wish.

    Unless they’re factory sealed, military charcoal suits are Airsoft window dressing with little effectiveness. Use one for practice, but know that it provides virtually zero protection for CBRN or BBP.
    Tyvek overgarments work for BBP, as well as nuclear fallout protection.
    (Radiation and problematic chemical gasses, not so much.)
    If you have more money than sense, you can go all the way up to a Level A Encapsulating Suit, but they require testing annually to verify that they’re still working properly, and they go for $800-$2K@. And don’t include the requisite PAPR or SCBA to breathe, which is another $500-$1K.
    They’re also bulky, hot, and will overheat you anywhere but above the Arctic Circle in about 30 minutes of average use, or 10 minutes of heavy work.
    Like patrolling with just a weapon and LBE.

    If fluids and blood-borne pathogens are your worry, wearing a full-face flip down shield, like you should always use for welding or metal grinding,

    is a great idea for splash protection, which is exactly why they wear them in trauma work and the OR, especially if power tools are being used to cut things (like bones).
    Spurting arterial bleeding or bone fragments in the face (or entering mucous membrane orifices like your mouth or nose) aren’t funny, unless they bounce off your full-face deflector screen.
    If you have a spare set of eyes in your medical kit, disregard the previous.

    Not to mention they come in handy for urban SAR work where debris is a problem, in conjunction with other PPE, like breathing gear.

    Oh, and kneepads always move around when you need them most.
    Sew permanent pockets for oversized (in length and width) ones inside your trouser legs. You can cut up an old OD military closed-cell mattress pad, or a new extra thick yoga mat from Wally World with a utility knife, and make knee pads that will never be out of place, and provide as much cushion as you need, for generally less than the price of the tacti-cool pads that snag, pinch, cut off circulation, overstretch, shift, and fail just when you need them. You can also glue on jeans material or patches to the front side of your pads for abrasion resistance, and if you’re a belt-and-suspenders guy, epoxy a square of velcro loop to your pants, and Velcro hook to your pad, inside those pad pockets, so when you put it somewhere, it stays there until you take it out.

    (If you apply an extra abrasive-resistant layer to your outback play togs, at the points on the legs where your legs push while low-crawling, and on the arms where your arms do the same, you’ll triple the life of the garments for a modest expenditure of time, and a slight weight increase. You’re not in the 3rd Infantry regiment on post at the Tomb of the Unknowns. Customize your field gear for utility, not absolute parade-ground uniformity.)

    The same fix on the outer leg and inner side of a pistol holster or leg pouch also makes a drop holster stay put, instead of becoming a dick-banging castrating jockstrap when you run.

    Hint: Don’t use the stickum 3M counts on to keep Velcro patches where you want them.
    Use clear Shoe Goo. (About $5/tube@ WallyWorld.)

    It will outlast your garments if you press it in with a C-clamp overnight before you use it.
    I have constructed entire garments using this, and then five years later, gone back and sewn the seams with a machine. the Shoe Goo was still bonding the fabric like it did on Day One.

    And BTW, if you don’t have heavy duty sewing tackle (including sail-mending gear), heavy thread in earth tones, buttons, an assortment of brass safety pins, plus some duct tape, Shoe Goo, cyanoacrylate glue, etc. squirreled away somewhere in your LBE/pack in a roughly fist-sized kit, for on-the-spot repairs of clothing and gear, you’re doing it wrong.
    Just saying.