Gun lights, headlights, EDC lights.
What, why, how much $, and where.
Streamlight. They make a 500 lumens and a 1000. The 1000 is too bright to use indoors and will light up tree tops 100 yards away. About $70 on Amazon. Recommended by Mosby.
Streamlight makes some of the most affordable high performance handheld flashlights.
I have a number of Surefire flashlights, most purchased at a steep discount for military members (before I retired) and before Surefire ended that access. They’re very good and are upgradable to LED bulb/reflector units to improve output. On a “turbohead” 9 volt unit I went from 120 lumens with a incandescent bulb to 900 lumens with LED. Huge difference. I have several yet to convert, will soon. One of them is a Pitcatinny rail mount weapon light and one is a replacement handguard with built in weapon light on a Benelli shotgun.
I’ve purchased three Streamlight flashlights, two 3v lithium batteries each, work very well, and each was about $70.00 delivered.
One last thing, always maintain an adequate supply of 3v batteries, they have a ten year shelf life, so you can store quite a few. If you have a refrigerator that isn’t used for food, you can extend that shelf life by at least 50%, maybe longer.
Streamlight and Surelight. Been using both since the early 90’s. Surelight is minutely better quality, and Streamlight is more user friendly for switching and batteries.
I’m a UTG guy. Cheap knock off shit that has worked way mo’ betta than the expensive Surefire piece oh shit I spent too much on.
i’ll have to agree.
i have around 2 dozen tac lites.
top shelf for the trophy sticks.. the cheapos for the clones and K’s..
so far, no complaints on the cheapos.
the surefire batts are what you want to stack deep
Fenix is my last word in lights. They have them for all rfi’d apps. Bomb proof hella bright and you won’t have to sell any extraneous internal organs to go deep on them. I’ve never worn one out or had them fail. I know of one that has been lost and found by three or four gangs out here on the right of way and it’s still ticking.
Just read Paddy’s comment and have to one up him. Fenix has a rechargeable that’s 9000 lumen, just in case you need to light up the whole side of that mountain three miles away. 😳😎😎😎
Speaking of rechargeable…
Has anyone been satisfied with the output and runtime of any particular brand of rechargeable CR123 batteries?
DO NOT run rechargeable CR123’s in your Surefire, it will blow the bulb(s)!!!
Ask me how I know.
I’m running a nice Inforce ($170) on my Glocks, and for my EDC have an Olight S2R ($75). Very handy and bright. CR123R’s in both brands.
Blown with halogens and/or LEDs?
I bought a few rechargeable CR123s, run time was much too short in my opinion when compared to the lithium standard batteries.
Can we include quality battery chargers/rechargeable batteries in here as well?
I have a Surefire headlamp. It’s nice, but it is spendy. Others have Nitecore headlamps, which work as well, and take more standard batteries, and are way cheaper.
The Surefire batteries have a two decade shelf life. That’s a huge plus, if you have reason to store batteries. AA batteries are a bit cheaper per Watt-hour, and more commonly available, which is another huge plus, if you don’t need to store them. A light which can accommodate either is a good thing.
The Fenix headlamps will accommodate either AA or Surefire batteries, at about half the cost of the equivalent Surefire lights. These are the lights I have bought my children.
For small pocket lights, spendy ($45) but good and often unique:
On Amazon, the Fenix goes over 100 lumens with a AAA battery and is around $15, and there are other similar flashlights.
I forget the model, but Batteries Plus has a 1000+ lumen model.
I have one if the brass AAA lights from County Comm. I’ve had it for over a year, carry it every day. I wouldn’t really classify it as a “fighting light” but it’s extremely handy. I use it all the time, and have had no issues with it.
As far as batteries and chargers I am partial to my Nitecore D4 charger and eneloops. I highly recommend the D4 charger. I’ve charged eneloops, Panasonic’s, Duracell rechargeables and a bunch of different 18650s for my cheap work headlamp.
Cheaped out on lights for rifles. Costco 600 lum multi pack of flashlights. Under thirty dollars. Use a 30mm scope mount, for mounting. Don’t care for press pads, to much chance of a light AD.
No edc flashlight. I carry a BENCHMADE tanto, daily.
Gear Queers, sheesh.
Roger, that, Dirk! Me as well–I live in cheap city. Lites from Harbor Freight $10 claims it’s 588 lumens (BS!) but works ok in 30mm scope mounts–until I win the lottery. Push button switch is problematic–keep your receipts::
Sreamlight. While disagreeing that the Pro-Tac HL-1X 1000-lumen model is “too bright” for inside (and yes I’ve tested it that way), it is still a large & in-charge light. People illuminated will not like it. A bit bulky for EDC in a pocket but many will like it on their belt. Dual-fuel (CR123 or 18650. Good to have around. Sticks about 6.5 oz. on the nose of the gun if mounted that way.
The 500-lumen Pro-Tac really shines both as EDC and as a weapon light. Same dual fuel. Crisp beam and halo as its big brother. Both come with pouch. If going for a long-gun light, both models are available in a rail-mount version. (I don’t like pressure pads & did mine in an old Weaver ring on a piece of rail section.)
Both the above have available High-Low-Strobe capability but – better than Chicom knockoffs – you can alter that to High only, High-Low, etc. using their Ten-Tap sequence to change it. Weapon light should = High only. “Strobing” should be a technique imo, not a setting on a light-YMMV.
If you’re issuing everyone a true “always in my pocket with keys & knife light” go the Streamlight Micro-Stream . Best light is the one you have with you. Cheap. This one you can shop online easy, including the slightly older non-USB version for cheaper. Great also as a quick “clip onto the ballcap visor” light.
“Strobing” should be a technique imo, not a setting on a light-YMMV.
Damned right! No tac use flashlights need a strobe function. One setting-HIGH. A separate E-strobe on your person for S&R. Learn how to disorient opponents with techniques.
I feel the same way about on-board pistol lights, having learned the original fbi lighting of target. I see too many fuckfaces pointing their firearm all over the place just to illuminate the “dark”.
Edited to add: CA, today’s masthead epic.
Fenix; unquestionably right there at the top.
Reasonably priced and superior quality.
New purchases get 20% off.
Or, type in “VIP20” and get 20% off.
This new one will be coming out May 7th, just ordered it.
There is no light too bright to use indoors. Check it. 1000 lumen surefire p3x fury handheld with thyrm switchback, 800 lumen streamlight tlr1 hl wml on glock 17 or 19. i don’t get blinded, i can see. this whole too bright crap is retarded .I carry a sure fire G2x pro with 15 lumen and 320 lumen outputs with a thyrm switchback everywhere. had a sure fire x300u. sold it. prefer the streamlight. Olight PL2 valkyrie WML got thumbs up from Aaron Cowan of sage dynamics. pretty intense testing period. he is very tough on his testing.
Have heard great things about the cloud defensive OWL. not cheap but tougher than hell. Back to the too bright thing, just don’t. Run thru some FOF at night, you want all the light you can get, whether inside or outside. we are trying to replace the Sun, thus bring the lumens. Also check spill vs throw.
some throw more with less spill, more appropriate for outside, while more spill works better indoors. Also, WD40 pen on lens will keep carbon from adhering to light and decreasing output. Thyrm also makes adhesive covers.
Cheap lights will fail you when you need it most. It isn’t gear queer, it is what is your life worth. I buy the lowes and home depot lights around christmas to have around. lots of them cause they fail. proven combat light usually dont. No one uses Harbor Freight as their combat tools supplier for a reason. You will get what you pay for. Am a father of 3 on a budget. Dump the smokes, snuff, eating out, drive up coffee, whatever the hell else, and get what will serve you and your family well. What comes after FUSA will be determined by those who made the sacrifices now in money, time, training, learning etc. Not by who spent less. So tired of Harbor Freight freedumb fighters.
What? No Alinskyite review of lights?
Define the mission, then select the firearm.
Consider each niche.
Concealed carry: Ruger carbine requires disassembly and backpack to be concealed, Ruger carbine is not as concealable as alternatives that require neither disassembly nor a backpack—hundreds of pistols, 9x19mm or otherwise, G43 or otherwise; AR pistols or otherwise.
close quarters “hits count”: Ruger carbine is not deployed as fast as any pistol, not as deadly as any pistol or revolver of superior chambering (10mm, .45ACP, .357SIG, et al.), not as deadly as any of the same weight or lighter ARs in any rifle chambering.
“200 yard” “hits count”: Ruger carbine not as accurate as any of the same weight or lighter AR pistols in any rifle chambering, e.g., 5.56 NATO, .300BLK, 6.5Grendel, 6.8SPC, etc.
“Beyond 200 yards”: Ruger carbine not as accurate as any of the same weight or lighter AR pistols in any rifle chambering, e.g., 5.56 NATO, .300BLK, 6.5Grendel, 6.8SPC, etc.
Terminal ballistics: not as deadly as any of the same weight or lighter AR pistols in any rifle chambering.
Price: innumerable better and less expensive options than the Ruger carbine—pistols, 9×19 or otherwise, G43 or otherwise; AR pistols or otherwise. One of many available alternatives: a lighter, more accurate, more concealable AR pistol with better terminal ballistics $499 here: https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-10-5-carbine-length-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-lightweight-m-lok-moe-ept-sba3-pistol-5165448581.html
Suppression: Subsonic .300BLK quieter than suppressed MP5 and AR 9×19, no sound pressure data found for suppressed Ruger carbine.
Takedown: Standard and AR pistol have advantage (no takedown required)
Ruger carbine— (1) lock the bolt back (2) verify empty chamber (3) pushing a recessed lever (4) twisting the subassemblies (5) pulling them apart.
Pistol—no takedown required.
AR pistol— no takedown required, but takedown can be accomplished by an equal number of steps: (1) confirm empty chamber (2) drop bolt (3) push takedown pin (4) push pivot pin (5) pull upper and lower apart.
price of ammunition v. value of ammunition:
Compared to the Ruger carbine, innumerable better, lighter, more concealable, and less expensive pistols shoot 9x19mm or better cartridges
Further, unless life is valueless, value trumps price.
13¢/rd 9x19mm steel-case versus value
• 3 to 200 yards, 17.9¢/rd 7.62×39 steel-case.
• 3 to 600 yards, 24.8¢/rd 6.5 Grendel steel-case
15.9¢/rd 147gn subsonic 9x19mm Blazer versus value
• 3 to 300 yards, 59.6¢/rd 208gn subsonic .300BLK
plinking—Maybe that’s the niche of the Ruger PC carbine. Oh, wait! Lives are not at stake and rimfire is cheaper.
Cue the Alinksyite sputtering and obfuscation.
The design of the Ruger PC does have one big advantage (shared by the Mini-14, as well). They are legal/unrestricted in a number of jurisdictions that have bans or limitations on other designs. That which you can actually have and use is far more valuable than that which you can’t.
You’re 0 for 3 Al, and you really want to go for 4?
Suppression: .300BLK, slight edge. Loses on accuracy, weapon price, and price per round. For anything in 9mm, suppression is (obviously) a dead heat.
Takedown: Pistols all have an edge, lose on accuracy beyond pistol ranges, price for pistol carbines, and price per round.
And the point with the carbine is putting it together, not taking it apart.
1) Insert barrel.
2) Twist 1/8th turn.
3) Load and fire.
It takes a few seconds, max, unless you’re one-handed, or handicapped.
If you don’t have that amount of time, you should neither be putting it together from concealment, nor taking it apart if it’s already in play, should you?
But cleverly, you were so busy hee-hawing, that you forget all that obviousness.
Price of ammunition vs. value of ammunition:
Pistol rounds out of pistols cannot hit at >pistol range.
Rifle rounds out of pistols cannot hit at >pistol range.
Pistol-caliber carbine delivers hits at all ranges from point blank to >200Y.
Lesson: Misses are expensive, hits are priceless.
You can’t miss to save enough money if you get hit while doing so.
And, cleverly again, you left out a few things:
Typical AR pistols weigh between 5 and 7 pounds.
Good luck shooting that anvil one handed, two handed, Weaver, Isosceles, or Chevy roof offhand. Whereas the PC9 out of the box comes in under 7#, for two-handed shoulder-firing.
AR .300BLK pistols:
The average is 2-3X the price of the Ruger PC. Even at MSRP.
Your favorite pick, the Honey Badger, runs $2,149!
Hey Al, can you spell M-A-T-H-E-M-A-T-I-C-A-L D-U-M-B-F-U-C-K?
Because at that price vs. any price on the Ruger PC, you’d be one.
At that price, someone smarter than you could buy
the Ruger PC, and
a Remington 870,
and a Glock 43,
and have change left over for a shitton of ammo for all four.
Or, get one Honeybadger pistol in .300BLK with a 50 yard effective range weighing 5#+.
Genius, man. You go.
Effective Range with any pistols vs. carbine.
Never addressed by you.
Because with your total inability to get hits at beyond pistol range, you’d have your ass handed to you – and be perforated by – a “plinker”.
Embarrassing, huh? And totally predictable.
Wise people would rather be missed by your .300BLK pistol than hit even with anybody’s .22LR anything.
But you’re too smart for that.
It’s nobody’s fault but yours you aren’t bright enough to see where you keep jumping off the cliff.
But you should probably stop, unless you’re a rodeo clown with OCD, or simply a masochistic moron.
After 4 bites at that apple on your part, I could give odds on which is likeliest.
And remember Al, I was happy to stop gratuitously kicking the shit out of you on this topic even before the 3rd go around.
You were the one who just had to play another hand.
Lay off the booze, get an icepack, and go lie down for awhile.
Both your head, and your ass, will thank you tomorrow.
And so will all kinds of people embarrassed to see you come off looking like this.
Alinsky-ite data-free logical fallacy #1: “.300BLK… loses on accuracy” = argument by assertion, outright bluff
Data: 9mm 147 gn FMJ RN BT has G1 BC of 0.212
208 gn BTHP Match has G1 BC of 0.620
.300 BLK has a significant G1 BC advantage of 0.408
Data from Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading, 9th edition
Alinsky-ite data-free logical fallacy #2: “suppression dead heat” = argument by assertion, outright bluff, no supporting data proffered
.300BLK 220 gn subsonic 124dB
9mm M4 147 gn subsonic 138dB
The .300BLK has a 14dB advantage in comparable platforms)
Data from The 300 AAC Blackout Low Visibility Carbine by Robert S Silvers, AAC (the developers of the system)
Alinsky-ite data-free logical fallacy #3: Ruger carbine—NO DATA WHATSOEVER, total Alinsky-ite bluff. Argument by assertion/deceit
Alinsky-ite data-free logical fallacy #4: Alinsky ignores that no pistol requires takedown
“How surprising.” No surprise at all. Actually (((stereotypical))).
Price of ammunition vs. value of ammunition
Alinsky-ite logical fallacy #5: “pointless comparison” = argument by assertion
and yesterday you touted the importance of ammunition price “like mileage and maintenance” of autos. Your point 4) here: https://westernrifleshooters.wordpress.com/2019/04/25/a-look-inside-the-machine/#comment-302619
Alinsky-ite logical fallacy #6: bait & switch
“Typical AR pistols weigh between 5 and 7 pounds.…Good luck shooting that…blah, blah, blah”
Alinsky-ite fallacy #7: deceit—AR pistols have braces that function as shoulder stocks, still more concealable and more accurate than Ruger POS
Alinsky-ite fallacy #8: cherry picking—many pistols weigh 23oz., hence far more concealable without takedown
PRICE “AR .300BLK pistols: $629-2,449”
Alinsky-ite fallacy #9: bait & switch, many cartridge options provided, WEAPON & CHAMBERING DEPENDS ON MISSION
Alinsky-ite fallacy #10: outright deceit, Alinsky ignored the provided link to $499 AR pistol https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-10-5-carbine-length-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-lightweight-m-lok-moe-ept-sba3-pistol-5165448581.html
“Effective Range with any pistols [sic] vs. carbine”
Alinsky-ite fallacy #11: “never addressed” = outright lie. Repeatedly stated: DEPENDS ON MISSION
Alinsky-ite fallacies #12 & 13: “you’d have your ass handed to you…blah, blah, blah” = ad hominem & assumes facts not in evidence
So, in aggregate, Alinksy’s motor mouth/potty mouth advocacy consists of a combination of 13 lies, bluffs, and logical fallacies. Almost as bad as his “Latin”: https://westernrifleshooters.wordpress.com/2019/04/22/mea-culpa/#comment-302211
The only persuasive point in favor of the Ruger POS was legal availability (hat tip: Jimmy the Saint), but even that goes out the window since you posited the scenario of “The Sportiness” ( https://westernrifleshooters.wordpress.com/2019/04/25/a-look-inside-the-machine/#comment-302619 ), hence the WROL scenario moots the legality issue.
“…you’re the kind of guy who’s so sure he’s always right about something, he won’t let facts contrary to his imaginary reality get in the way of his screed” https://westernrifleshooters.wordpress.com/2019/04/25/a-look-inside-the-machine/#comment-302679
Oh, the irony.
Al, you got a bonner for Aesop? You two are killing me.
Nope. Happily married and fecund… life is grand…
(…but is amusing to see him rage, sputter, and twist in the wind).
No better weapons light for the money than this-
No connection to the seller etc…..I used one of these in a Guerilla Approach Carbine Class late last year and it blew every other light there out of the water. Only the Surefire Scout was close and its’ 3-4x the money.
Saw the comment on battery chargers. I bought one of these-
Been great so far for 18650 charging. Only had it about 3 months though so you pays your money and takes your chances! Nitecore seems to be a pretty good outfit though. I liked that it could be charged by wall plug or USB/Cigarette style plug. Options are good!
I’ve been using the same charger for over 3 years now. No issues. Lots of use.
The A1S from either ATACTICAL OR WOWTAC.
$26 right now.
Yes I know this is a straight from China OEM light. IT WORKS WELL. I use it working nights to scan the perimeter for eye reflections (hogs) on high, and the turbo mode it will illuminate tree tops at 100 meters. fits nicely in the front pocket, and has lasted me EDC for 3 years, so I now own 3 of them.
BTW the 18650 is rechargeable from the micro usb located on the battery.
And yes the storage capacity of the battery appears to be accurate.
That’s an inneresting flashlight, I just ordered 2. Tnx for the tip.
I’m definitely a long time Streamlight fan. They are pretty popular with pro mechanics, I’ve seen em survive getting run over, or dropped in a bucket of diesel oil.
On the other end of the spectrum-I have a Black Diamond Ion headlamp that casts a very dim red light. It is great for reading maps on those dark, moonless lights. It’s also very small and easy to stash in a pocket.
I have several Petzl headlamps, including their Coyote Tan tactical model which comes with red lens insert. For those of you that haven’t used red lenses, they’re worth their weight in gold for maintaining a low profile at night.
Assuming you’re not being watched by high tech surveillance equipment. In which case you’re fucked anyway.
Don’t they also have a version with red, green, and blue lenses?
Got that too. 🙂
@Al Liguouri rechargeable 3.3V Tenergy RCR123 Beauty
+1 on Streamlight and Surefire. I use Streamlight TLR-1s and Surefire 6Ps.with and without Malkoff conversions. The Cree 6P LED conversions from eBay work well with the 6P platform and have not yet failed on AR15 platforms with several thousand rounds downrange. Dont have much data re 7.62 or 6.8SPC. VLTOR makes a killa 6P rail mount.
Handheld, +1 again on Surefire 6P as well as Nitecore MT1A
I am in paper, steel aluminum mills and shipyards all the time. Sometimes my life depends on my flashlight in tiht and closed spaces. Streamlight Survivor or any of their other safety rated lights – will buy no other.
Headlamps. I have Petzl only, work in the wettest weather the Southeast has to offer.
@whoever Streamlight Stylus AAA, single or double. +1
@BrentG @name (required) rechargers. Nitecore +1 multiple battery technology. Works well with my GHB solar setup. And yes, stock up on 6P incandescent (EMF anyone) bulbs and SF 3V batts.
Who the F is Dirk? I am all about value (hence Nitecore and Streamlight) but Costco for weaponlights, really? “Gear queers”, oh now I know all I need.
Sorry, I have been chastised before due to the whole “15 fighters motif” and other spendy recommendations. Some things you cant go cheap – seeing the dark for me is one.
Dirk is a retired cop, now a highly respected member of the patriot community in S. Oregon, has very expensive sniper rifles and optics, but goes cheap on everything else.
He’s a total contradiction in terms, says one thing, does another. Laughs it off as a joke when he gets called on his BS.
Two days ago he told us to go back to writing letters for OpSec, this from the guy who can’t spell and can’t make himself understood to anyone. Can you imagine the reports he used to submit while on duty? Life in prison because the cop couldn’t write clearly.
Dirk, in all seriousness please don’t ever write a mission order, you’ll get people killed.
Ha ha, just pulling your leg.
“@Al Liguouri rechargeable 3.3V Tenergy RCR123 Beauty”
A “15 fighters” category we havent covered is comms. ICOM F3 and V8s with AA battery trays. Motorola i355 PTT with 2 mile effective range. Both have the NCScout seal of approval. The latter not a AA based solution but the chargers interface is a cigarette lighter amenable to above charging solutions. Low budget secure using “burst” comms and brevity codes. We use them for church security comms (tfa-T warning).
Agree. No matter what part of the band, mode, handheld, panel-mount, or base, never had problem with ICOM. Motorola’s encrypted biz band radios are great—except that .gov has the keys.
I have no complaints on any lights.
However, That being said, Not all bulbs and O-rings are that great.
I honestly recommend having a blend of lights and batteries.
They say Incandescent is dead…
I have never heard of an LED bulb being used as a trigger for an IED.
I will say Two Things.
I have a head lamp that has three lights on it and two tinny carabiners.
Each Headlamp takes 3-AAA, 2-AA, or 1 CR123 respectively.
I always have a way to walk safely and patrol.
It’s heavy, But I haven’t been blacked out in a woodline in years, and it can work as an area light or a workspace light. I can also remove a light from the headband and use it as a tool light or a hand light.
I recommend epoxying those little red thumb lights to you optics.
You can also us 3M HV double sided tape
“They say Incandescent is dead…” etc.
Thanks for an idea you just generated.
Speaking of O-rings………..
As a former Scubapro repair technician I’ve greased a shitload of o-rings on all kinds of various life support equipment.
One overlooked item of gear is o-rings, they keep water out of the inside of your expensive equipment. So to combat water damage to anything you hold dear to your wallet, invest in a small keychain tub of silicone grease (mine’s from Aquaseal, food grade silicone).
Use a dental pick to carefully slide the o-ring out of it’s groove and off the piece of equipment. Use whatever fits (Q-tip, rag, soft toothbrush, etc) to clean the groove out so it doesn’t have any foreign debris in it. Also clean the opposing side of bezel, cap, etc.
Take a soft cotton rag and gently wipe the o-ring clean, then dab your finger in the silicone and rub it all over the o-ring, carefully replace it back in the groove it came out of. Repeat on all the o-rings, and as needed and if you break an o-ring, try the auto parts store, or a Scuba shop to find a replacement.
Just a few minutes of preventative maintenance will save you a lot of grief later.
those of you looking for a cheap solution……..petroleum jelly EATS rubber. Don’t even think of using anything besides silicone grease, it won’t work.
Best selling flashlight on Amazon, uses (1) AA or (1) 14500, been using them for 4 years – no problems, $6.49. I own 8 of them.
I like good lights, and I like cheap lights, but there aren’t any that are both.
I’ve got a bucket of $2 WallyWorld China-made flashlights that will probably outlast cockroaches in a nuclear war, and run forever on rechargeable Energizer AAAs.
Something a bit nicer is a Bushnell T150L, 2 white light levels, + red and blue lights, runs on a single AA. Only way to improve it would have been to add IR LEDs. $15 at WallyWorld in the day, but appears to be discontinued.
The Petzl headlamps are the shit if you want something that will work, and not break, even with rough and wet use. About $30, multiple brightness levels, and red. Uses AAAs.
For a weapon, it’s either good, or junk. I tend to want good.
Pistol: Surefire X300, >$250@.
M-4gery, etc.: SIG STL-300, later by iTac
Which was +/- $100 IIRC, light/laser, but SIG/iTac discontinued it, and I haven’t had occasion to replace the ones I’ve got.
Not sure how the .300 Blackout and Ruger pistol caliber carbine bullshit is relevant to discussing weapon mounted, handheld and headlamps but maybe I’ve missed something.
I like streamlight for handheld lights but the only weapons mounted lights of theirs I’m willing to go with are their pistol lights. The ProTac just hasn’t convinced me it’s durable enough. I have recently picked up a few for loaners and training guns but I’ve heard too many bad things about them since then. I know of a few schools that have abandoned them on their rental guns citing durability issues. For now that leaves me with just the Surefire for weapons mounted use, excepting the pistol option already mentioned.
I have no issues with the streamlight hand held lights and have at least a half dozen but I still have more surefire hand held lights and use those for carry. By only remaining headlamps are the petzel that uses the 2032 batteries though I’ll probably be buying a few more headlamps. Preferably ones that take the 123s. The 123 or single AA option is attractive to me as I’d prefer not to add another size battery to the mix.
Streamlite TLR1 and TLR1 gamespotter. Truglo tru-point with built in green laser. Never an issue with either. Ever for me. The tru-glo should have been killed by the muzzle brake its mounted under. It lives. 123s by the box full. House brand 123s is titanium innovations where I but them. I buy them by the box. Still dont have enough. My pocket EDC lights eat em like candy.
So years ago read an article in car and driver about defeating laser radar guns with infra red light. They took a big hella fog lamp and covered it with some kind of material that only passed IR light. Apparently it worked quite well. Apart from being some useful outlaw speeder tech, my thought is for those with NVG’s that you could hook up some IR only lights on your 4×4 overland rig. I’d certainly have to do some more research on what specific products one would need to do this. Technically it’d be really easy to hook up.
That’s an interesting topic if you’re able to locate more info.
As far as headlights, there’s all kinds of stuff on the market. Just check out your local truck store. They might also have a good deal on some rg8x too. Truck stops and truck stores are a great source for all sorts of useful things.
Don’t forget little red LED lights that usually will run forever on a single AA battery. They give you the right amount of light for reading maps and doing other tasks without blowing out your natural night vision.
I second the recommendation of the Petzl headlamp. Uses three AAA batteries, has multiple light levels, strobe, and red. I plan to acquire more.
As an aside, I don’t clom extra items on pistols such as optical sights and lights, though the Ruger 10-22 Charger is technically a pistol, it is the exception to my personal rule. I love the fact that SIG still makes pistols without accessory rails, and of course a genuine Colt Government Model is sans rail, too.
As always, the above is my opinion.
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