Part I here.
I replaced a few of the internals with OEM parts and applied the adhesive grip panels from Brownell’s. I would replace the sights but I’m the type of shooter who just shuts his eyes and mag dumps so that would be money wasted in my case.
Quantity has a quality all its own.
Guns, women, automobile brands, everyone has different tastes. The key is do they perform as you like? I’ll not piss on your choices if you respect mine.
Good points made, tricking ones weapon as noted is a personal matter. The suggested choices here are a no brainier. Doing the stippling is easy, I use a wood burning iron. Select which tip to apply to the iron heat and start the project.
Sights are priority #1.
I’ve never rounded the bottom of the trigger guard, for me it just makes sense. Mi grip Glocks as high and tight as possible. The Webb of my shooting hand is so tight against the trigger guard its notice able.
I don’t like that pressure I feel when engaging the trigger. ,rounding that area out seems like a practical solution. Going to have to consider seriously doing that to my 30 and 21.
These mods have made my particular Glocks more reliable and simply a joy to shoot. For me, these after market mods make them outstanding sidearms (others mileage may vary, of course):
Tungsten Guide Rod: https://www.glockstore.com/Tungsten-Competition-Recoil-Spring_3
Vickers Tactical Slide Stop: https://www.vickerstactical.com/products.html
Buffer Technologies Buffer: https://www.galatiinternational.com/recoil-buffer-for-glock-buffer-tech.html
Ghost, Inc, Ghost Tactical 5 Connector: http://www.kingglock.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=235148&CAT=9372 with upgraded springs (about 10 bucks).
And, of course, Ameriglo for the 19 and TruGlo for the 21.
PS: The article does make a great point about keeping spare parts, “just in case,” so that if/when something breaks, you’ve got a very short amount of time with a non-functioning weapon. I have a shop version of his tacklebox idea, and a field version: it’s a simple cordura passport ‘wallet’ with various parts that I have in my ruck. Can’t beat it. https://www.amazon.com/Blocking-Minimalist-Passport-Organizer-Travel/dp/B07GQC52HB/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=tactical+passport+holder&qid=1560259863&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Agreed on the stainless guide rods and heavier recoil springs. I run 18-20 lb springs in mine due to heavier loads, smooths out the recoil impulse too. Tried various trigger springs, went back to OEM.
My G23 has night sights, while I run green/red Truglo on my G20 woods pistol. G20 also has Inforce light for night use in backcountry.
How do you select recoil spring weight?
I have around 15,000 rounds through my G19 and I’m thinking that it might not be a bad idea to replace them.
You could Google that exact question and it will take you to some blogs.
I shoot heavy cast reloads and needed to slow the slide down so it doesn’t hit slide/frame too hard, and set timing with magazine spring uplift so I went to 18-20-22 lb springs, light target loads will use 14-16 lb springs. OEM is 17 lb I think. I like the stainless recoil spring guide rods from ISMI, the Glock OEM plastic ones crack. Order from Midwayusa.
You’re over due for new springs, they say about every 5,000 rds for 1911, Glocks seem to run forever, but at $6 a spring, buy a handful. Same goes for AR’s. I use Wolff springs, they make every spring you’ll need for a repair kit.
Same goes for old slow mag springs. If feeding is a problem, it could be a dead mag spring. I’ve got some WW2 Colt mfg .45acp mags that finally died, time for new springs!
The oem recoil spring is good to 150,000 rounds. If you want to play with recoil spring weights, Wolf Springs sells multi spring, multi weight sets. It allows you to match the springs to ammunition, and recoil comfort level.
To assess optimal recoil spring weight, shoot Ben Stoeger’s Doubles drill. Check your vertical spread and your split times. Generally, your accuracy and your speed will improve with lighter recoil springs. I surmise this might be a big deal since I’m told gunfights typically don’t end with the first round fired.
With both defensive ammo (federal hst, speer gold dot) and practice ammo (wolf, tula, blazer aluminum), I’ve found a 15 lb. recoil spring works best (gen 3 and gen 4 19s). Haven’t had any reliability problems with it. At 13 lbs, when the gun is real dirty sometimes I get issues with the gun failing to back into battery. Since I shoot the 15 pound better anyway, no issue there. I’m guessing the guys shooting 18, 20 and 22 pound springs aren’t measuring the size of their groups when shooting multiple round strings at speed (.25 or faster splits).
Heavy guide rods (tungsten/steel) offer noticeable improvements as well (decreases muzzle flip, gun shoots flatter). Weapon lights do the same thing.
Lightened trigger connectors that remove the wall (ghost edge, glockstore black yikes) do a lot to fight pre-ignition push and generally enhance accuracy.
Finally, a lot of people shoot gen 4 glocks without any of the add-on backstraps. The gen 4 grip is smaller back to front than the gen 3. If you’re a male and have medium-sized hands, there’s a better than even chance you will be more accurate with – at minimum – the M sized back strap add-on. If you have large hands, you might need the L sized back strap. Long story short…no “real estate” = no traction and your accuracy suffers in multiple round strings. The people who shoot the gen 4 frame naked typically do it because it feels better subjectively. I’d rather be fast and accurate than comfortable. As always, YMMV.
“I’m guessing the guys shooting 18, 20 and 22 pound springs aren’t measuring the size of their groups when shooting multiple round strings at speed ”
I live in NW Wyoming, I’m loaded for bear, not paper targets. My G20 10mm field loads are heavy hard cast 200 gr. SWC at 1200+ fps, my S&W 1006 in excess of 1300+ fps. My G23 40 S&W has 175 TC hard cast around 1050 fps and the social load is a 155 gr Gold Dot at 1450 fps. If I shot your light springs my pistols would beat themselves apart. Years of trial and error are how I found out the proper spring weight. Most factory loads are anemic, the 10mm is in the same class as the .40 S&W, So I load them up to usable velocities and as such, use heavier springs.
Run some Underwood loads thru your pistols and then come tell me those springs are adequate.
FYI, anyone else wanting hotter loads, don’t waste your money on DoubleTap, Buffalo Bore or any of the other brands, only Underwood offers honest velocities and reasonable prices. DoubleTap is one of the worst for lying about their velocities, many loads are at least 100 fps slower than advertised.
Well, as long a ‘Tactical’ appears in the product name, I’m sold!
it always escaped me why one would buy a pistol and have to change out all the parts…… does not add up…
It’s akin to upgrading performance parts in a fine automobile or truck. Same goes with rifles, whatever caliber. At least for me it is…
Another symptom of Affluenza.
You sure you’re using the right term, sport?
a psychological malaise supposedly affecting wealthy young people, symptoms of which include a lack of motivation, feelings of guilt, and a sense of isolation.
The way I see it, upgrading the internal parts on a machine to enhance performance would indicate the presence, not lack, of motivation, certainly not guilt, or isolation.
I’ve been using that term a lot, lot longer than Marxist Wikipedia has.
Affluenza = Having too many debt-bucks in your pocket and foolishly spending said debt-bucks on needless things.
As for updating a brand-new Glock… are you serious? There’s nothing wrong with it. Just go out and use it.
I didn’t say there was anything wrong with an out of the box glock. All I did was note what I choose to upgrade on my personal pistols. Just like when I purchase any pistol or rifle that’s ‘stock’ – I upgrade it to its best performance potential within my means.
Why would that be an issue to anyone? (Rhetorical question)
You don’t have to change anything on a Glock, they run forever just as they are, however, many people like to upgrade and customize their pistols, just like folks do with their AR’s and cars.
Friend of mine bought a new Toyota Tacoma TRD last year on my recommendation, now he can’t understand when I told him to get a stout grill guard, winch and off-road tires to replace the junk factory tires, he’s complaining it will void the warranty. Some people’s kids………
The Internet, like this here article, exerts a might strong peer pressure.
replacement guide rod/recoil spring assembly (get rid of OEM polymer)
ghost ring rear w/ tritium and hi-viz – tritium front
Pro-Lix and Prolix Lube
You mis-spelled ‘prolapse’
Feed the beast! Your dollars required to keep the after-market industry strong.
As funny as that is, there’s no lack of idiots scarfing up every one of those aftermarket gimmicks.
As ensitue just said, if it says ‘tactical’ it’s already sold.
I carry a 19. I replaced the sights with a set of Dawson Precision sights as soon as I got it. But stopped there on any other mods because it is a carry gun. I thinks it’s important to remember a “Modified” gun leaves you wide open for an expensive court ordeal should you ever need to use it.
I can think of 1,911 things that can be done to improve Gaston’s mousetrap .
It’s 105 degrees here today. I carry out side the waste, under a shirt. After a day like today I will have rust forming on my G19 slide. And you now what. I don’t care. It’s a freaken $500.00 gun that will perform perfectly when I need it. I own a bunch of 1911’s. Anything from Les Baers to Colts to Dan Wessons. Out of those guns one of them doesn’t start puking after 500 rounds. That would be the Dan Wesson. Which I would not hesitate going into battle with. But why? The Glock has twice the mag capacity and never fails to go bang. Carry weapons take a hell of a beating. Not to mention the dreaded “Dust Bunnies”. I’ll beat my Glock and save my 1911’s.
a glock is a tool, i just prefer my sig, it too is a tool. a 1911 is also a tool and some prefer it. they are all well proven tools and extremely effective in the proper hands.
i find arguments about firearms to be tedious, seriously if you hit a 2700 meter shot with a .408 cheytac and published it on youtube with 10 witnesses, some other guy has a friend or cousin or uncle who hit the black at 3400 meters.
Sts. Guide rod, 3.5 lb. connector, Trijicons. Done. Spent the rest on ammo. Gun (1st gen 17) hits what I am looking at, and has snuffed a bunch of stuff in the 25 years it has been on my hip. Never a malf. Put enough ammo through the gun so far, I could have bought a lot of custom shit for it and had money left for a good pickup. Single best mod for a new gun is a ton of rounds through the barrel, in a manner that improves the skill of the user. Shoot a good gun enough to be replacing wear parts and you probably know a little bit about using it. Beats the latest Gucci kit and no experience with it.
I have a 1911, too. Shoots tiny little groups on the ocular cavity targets. Likes rounded nose ammunition, picky about more truncated types. Nice gun, I like using it more than the 17. But it looks nice, and has checkering and serrations on the hammer, just shreds a shirt when I am working. The 17 eats the dust and sweat, is nice to my shirt, and puts a bullet or three where I want them with no fuss whenever I need it to. No rust, no fuss. So the 1911 stays home.
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